Riserva Dell'Olmo

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• sarlou82

  02 noviembre 2011
  Beautiful surroundings but a few glitches - overall mixed feelings

  Riserva dell'Olmo is an agro-tourismo - it's a working farm (arable) where a big barn/farmhouse has been converted into a set of apartments of various sizes.We stayed for a week in August at the Riserva dell'Olmo in Apartment D. The first thing you should be aware of, which i don't think is expressed strongly enough on any of the booking sites is that you should not contemplate staying here without a car. We arrived by train and then bus having alighted approximately 200 meters from the entrance of the Riserva. However - that final stretch is a very very busy road without a pathway so you cannot walk it. We ended up calling the owner who sent her husband to collect us. This was kind. We were met by the owner Agnese who greeted us and took us into their office. You have to pay for the accomodation and the tourist tax straight away. Agnese speaks great English which was helpful (even though we tried our best in italian) - however i'm not sure if it is just her manner or something lost in translation but she comes across as being quite abrupt. She is helpful and will make recommendations if you ask. When you see her or any of the family they say hello. However, we witnessed a couple of incidents where she was quite abrupt with other guests - she shreaked at two english boys for sitting on a wall - a simple request to get off it would have been a better start. She also rapidly dismissed a French man who was simply asking her a little about the history of the farm by saying 'no money - we can't afford to build it as it costs too much'........see what i mean about lost in translation? As we were checking in I asked Agnese where we could hire bikes locally. She pointed out that bikes were nearly as much as cars and that we should hire a car. That hadn't been my intention as I have driven before in Italy and know that it's not particularly a relaxing experience! Soon enough Agnese was on the phone to a local car hire centre getting a quote for a car for the week. She was right that car hire turned out to be nearly the same price as bicycle hire. We didn't want to make a decision immediately - so we were given 15 minutes to think about it as Agnese was leaving then - however she urged us to get a car as 'i don't want you to be asking me for lifts everywhere'......i don't know what kind of guests they have had before but we would never have done this! So, we decided to take the car in the end. On the way to pick it up Agnese took us to the local supermarket. Again this is kind - but also be aware that you are expected to use her loyalty card to get her loyalty points on your shop. We didn't really have a problem with this but it was a tad cheeky. At the Riserva I had chosen apartment D because it was the right size (for two) and it had a 'private terrace' whereas another apartment for the same price did not. We soon realised that the terrace is actually a larger terrace divided in two by a thin rattan screen (with a hole in it) and shared with the apartment next door. The apartment next door is where the owner and her very vocal family live. The family were out for most of the time during the day so it was quite private then. However, in the evening and when the family were there you certainly knew about it - all the elements of Italian life were quite loudly lived out right next to us - the daughter and her friend chatting with their boyfriends, the owner and her husband shouting at each other, the entire extended family shouting at each other over sunday lunch, the husband watching a football match with the sound full blast - and worse than the noise, the fact that they can quite clearly see you on your 'private terrace'. We would suggest that they get a thicker screen that you can't see through and also to quite clearly state on information about the apartment that the terrace is divided with another apartment. The view from the terrace however is fantastic! As a self catering apartment it is well appointed. There's a lounge with a sofa, tv (italian), table and in the corner a clean fridge/freezer, sink, cooker and cupboards. There's not a massive amount of room or utensils but definitely enough for holiday catering for two. The bathroom has everything you need but it's quite dated and a bit shabby. The shower, although not unclean, is a bit grubby looking as some of the grout is crumbling. There is also no cleaning during your stay unless you pay extra for it. The biggest problem in this apartment is the bed - it's terribly uncomfortable. The springs are all broken and no matter how hard you try you both end up sucked into a big dip in the middle of the bed. Our bed at home is rickety and not particularly comfortable so if you have a comfy bed at home you'd find this one even worse! Please please please get a new bed in this apartment - because other than that it would be a very comfortable holiday space. Other than a few problems with the apartment the Riserva itself is an absolutely beautiful place. The grounds are very attractive and there is a barbeque you can use. The pool is a little walk away from the apartment building down a dust track and is in a fenced off area. The pool itself is gorgeous - nice and big and perfectly clean. There are loads of sunbeds and a little shaded area with tables and chairs. There's also a little hut with a very clean shower and toilet - which is great as you are a minute or two walk away from your apartment. You should be aware though that the pool area is only open from 8am-8pm and is also closed when it rains (i can understand in a lightening storm but surely not for a few drops of rain?!) Children are not supposed to be left unattended which in the main they were not - however this is not exactly policed and we did witness an unfortunate couple of hours where a group of 10 or so French children were left alone by the pool and spent the entire time relay dive bombing into the pool. Not exactly the owner's fault but we did wonder what the point of their rigorous rules were if they weren't going to be enforced. Once you have your car the Riserva is in a great location. It's not in Bracciano at all but is reasonably close to Anguillara, around 5/10 minutes drive away. Anguillara is lovely - there's a gorgeous old town which meanders up a hill and a stunning bay next to the lake. Try the restaurant with the little wooden tables and chairs on the lake front. Bracciano is also next to the lake and is around a 15/20 minute drive from the Riserva. The area is a beautiful area to explore and it's no wonder so many Italians holiday there. There are loads of lovely restaurants and bars - we tried 'La Vela' on Agnese's recommendation - which is in a different area between Anguillara and Bracciano - it wasn't cheap but it was absolutely delicious and a proper Italian dining experience. The Riserva is also excellently located to take a day trip into Rome as Cesano station is only a few minutes drive away. From there you can catch the regular trains that will take you into Rome in 30 minutes on a double decker air conditioned train for only two euros per couple! However - we'd recommend also doing what we did and spend a couple of nights in Rome too as the trains to Cesano stop around 10 so you won't be able to get the best taste of late night Rome. In summary we did have a fabulous week at the Riserva and left completely relaxed. The Riserva is beautiful and minus a few glitches with the apartment and a certain abrupness from the owner, it's a great place to stay......if you have a car! I'm not 100% sure we would stay there again but we would definitely return to Anguillara and would recommend the area to anyone!